Day 9 - Stockholm
Woke early, probably around 4.30 and could see that it was light outside, but that was to be expected with sunrise at 3.24 (& sunset at 10.04) ! Anyway, was far too early, so turned over for a while but eventually succumbed to the temptation to open the curtains and wow, what a sight. Once again we have a 60 mile sail into Stockholm through literally thousands of islands - big, small, very small and minute. We are so close to shore and in the morning calm, there is something magical. Clickity click click until time for breakfast.
As usual we managed breakfast and disembarkation by 9.00. Purchased Hoho tickets from the information office on the wharf. We decided, or at least were persuaded to by the combined bus/boat combo. It turned out to be a good decision. Once again we elected to start with the boat and although there was a 10 minute delay until "our" (green) boat arrived we were soon on our way, but in the wrong direction. It turns out that the scheduled service didn't start until 9.45. In any event we disembarked adjacent to the Old City.
Now we wait, and wait but no "green" Hoho buses (they are actually red, just like the other company!) going our way, but then we spot one heading in the other direction and jump on. It is pretty well completely empty, which is a blessing. Our driver is of course Irish and off we go to parliament building. It takes forever, with roadworks lights, police & we understand the Bangladeshi PM or other dignatory staying in the Grand Hotel on the way. Over 20 police plus motorcade of 10 big black vehicles blocking much of the area around the hotel. I am tempted to say more, like how big a security detail would they need if there was a "real" world leader? Ouch!
Anyway we eventually completed that part of the circuit and processed through the business district, which is relatively modern, given that in the 60s they demolished all the heritage buildings to try and replicate US/Wall Street etc. What a shame. Anyway, we had really made little progress on the circuits and could see that it would be at least another hour plus until we got back to the centre of town, so we jumped off by the park, adjacent to the old city. It was a pleasant walk back to the waterfront (about half a mile from our departure point) and then up to the Palace.
Our aim was to (this time) see the changing of the guard, which is at 12.15. As it is only 11.00, we have spare time *but* people in the know tell us that we have to be in the front row and that means that as soon as the guards put up the rope, getting to our spot and staying there. SO, just before 11.30 we have our spot - luckily it was a pleasant temperature and not too much direct sun. The crowds soon gathered, but we were unmoved. Feet hurt heaps after it was all over though.
Well, the changing procedure is something to behold - for a start the Major in charge introduced himself and gave a rundown of the history and processes, then in march a dozen guards (both male & female looking about 16 years old). Nothing happens then until the stroke of 12.15 - if there is a stroke that is, when the sound of a band is heard in the distance and in come the band - on horseback. The only mounted military band in the world. More guards march in, some Officers also parade, guards run and process and more guards on horseback parade and to be honest I was a little unsure of what was going on, but it was impressive. Much drawing of swords, waving them around etc. The highlight was the performance by the band of musical & equestrian manoeuvres. We loved the drummer on the big draughthorse. The ceremony concluded about 1.00 and was well worth the sore feet.
We adjourned to the inner courtyard & had coffee & quiche. Much more reasonable. We had a quick look at the royal chapel, which was free, but time did not permit us to do the tour of the rest of the Palace, to Vivian's disappointment. We did wander through the Old town, once again lots of cobblestones and by that time plenty of eateries and drinkeries! Suddenly we were back where we started this morning, so not wishing to risk the traffic any more, we hopped back on our Hoho boat and completed the loop, seeing at least a part of Stockholm we hadn't already visited. Actually, the main "touristy" areas are quite accessible and all in all was much smaller than we had thought.
We completed yet another circuit of the harbour and found our way back to the ship by 4.00, which was in plenty of time for sail out around 4.45. More exquisite homes on the way out, as well as those little 1 cottage islands - they don't seem to be worried about climate change and rising oceans! Dinner was a surprise as our 2 sisters, our other table mates arrived, but unfortunately Raewyn and Phil were recuperating from a big day ashore. Still, it was really nice not to be (once again) sitting by ourselves at a table for 8.
Day 10 - Tallinn
Yet another lovely day, reaching 25 in the middle of the day. We have decided to simply walk into town and the Old City. A very easy walk from the ship and through the old streets once we passed through the city wall. It was still pretty early in the day and on our way up to the town square, cafes and outside bars were still setting up.
Through the main square (amazed at the number of people drinking beer etc at 10.00ish) and then up the 150 odd steps to the upper town. There is a relatively modern (almost 100 years only) cathedral. At the last minute we decided to "pop in". Not that I stayed long, but Vivian did and established that there was a funeral service going on & an open coffin! In contrast, down in the lower town, just by the gate there was another cathedral, which was closed - for a wedding! It was all happening in Tallinn on a Saturday.
I digress, particularly noticeable when we were in the upper town were the number of tour guides and groups. Literally hundreds. When we looked down from castle walls all we could see were buses, buses and more buses. There were certainly a lot more visitors in town than the Queen Elizabeth. We had a coffee (unmemerable) and an applecake down in the town square and if you could imagine a group of about 30 with tour guide walk straight through the tables to go to the toilets - they could have gone around us, as it was only a metre or 2 to the roadway, but no.
There was some kind of festival going on and there was a stage with folk music and dancing, which created a great atmosphere. Dozens of stalls were set up, selling mainly woollen goods such as hats, gloves and other cold weather essentials. Thankfully we certainly did not need today. We wandered home quietly and took it easy for the rest of the day, being aware that tomorrow is a big day, St Petersburg.
Photos:
1 - 3 Stockholm sailing in
4 - 7 Changing the guard
8 Lunch
9 Royal chapel
10 - 11 Old town
12 - 13 Our Hoho boat
14 - 15 Sailing out
16 - 24 Tallinn
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