Thankfully we got our hour back again as I wanted to get up to watch our 2 hour sail in to Kotor, starting around 6.00am. It is a brilliant clear day and the sail in is a bit like the Norwegian Fjords - narrow and windy. It is very calm and clear, at least so far. This *really is* a tender port and on top of that we have both the Golden Princess & Norwegian Star also at anchor - so around 9,000 passengers in port today. Joy, oh joy.
Lady of the Rocks
Perast early morning
Went down for our tender ticket at 9.15 and we were ashore just before 10.00, so not too bad considering. We are doing our own thing today and initially will look through the walled city. We found Kotor far better than other old walled cities, as it had a charm and originality about it. All the little streets and shops operating right out of the caves in the original walls. Lots of musicians busking, but had a real charm about it. Am I repeating myself? - Must have enjoyed it.
After 45 minutes ambling around, we thought it was time for a coffee but after looking at a couple of outlets, we were unimpressed until we "happened" upon one in a largish square. We later found out that all 4 outlets in this square, with different names, menus etc. were in fact serviced from one outlet. I recall the similar thing in Barcelona. We ordered iced coffee with ice cream rather than the usual ice - very good for just €3 each.
It didn't take too long to realise that this was not just *a* large square, but a major one. We were right outside the Maritime Museum. Dozens of tour groups came and went, so we had a great time people watching. Sorry to say that it reaffirmed my "issues" with many guided tours. Rush here, move on, stand in sun, move on, hurry along etc......
We felt that we had a bit more to see of Kotor, so headed towards the southwestern wall, with lots of narrow alleyways heading up steep stairs (many of these were backpackers & other b&b.s. etc, then through a very old area until we reached the south gate. We exited here and headed back to the main gate on the outside of the city and came across the markets in full swing - fruit, vegetables, fish, meat etc. Interesting that there had been Princess tours to visit these markets!
Back at the main gate we pondered either going back to the ship or trying to get a taxi/bus to Perast, roughly 20 minutes away. We saw Perast as we sailed in this morning, it is sort of opposite the bend in the fiord before we head straight towards Kotor. It is also famous for 2l islands including "Our Lady of the Rocks". The Nuns still ring the chapel bell when a ship sails in/out (we heard it this morning a bit late!). I digress. On our way to the Old Town this morning we were touted by a driver, but said we'd get back to him. Well of course he wasn't around, but other drivers still hanging around at this time "offered" €100 & then €70, both of which we declined.
Finally, just as we were about to enter the port gates, another driver approached us and long story short, we agreed to 3 hours including 2 photo stops with panoramic views and stay in Perast for as long as we want for €50. Our alternative by the way was the Hoho bus, but I had seen quite a few negative reviews, particularly the non hopoffs. The Hoho would have cost €40, so an extra €10 more gave us flexibility.
Now as all good taxi drivers do - the "taxi" was parked outside the Shopping Mall, a few hundred metres away. Not that this worried us, as it enabled us to use the facilities in the Mall before heading off. At our driver's suggestion, we headed directly to Perast to avoid the crowds in Kotor. We stopped for photos above Perast and were surprised to find that the town itsef is vehicle free (mostly). Our driver parked outside of town and we agreed to meet an hour later.
We walked through the (old) village, where there was lots of restoration work going on and strangely enough, a wide newly sealed road. The coast was on one side and it was a pleasant stroll. We passed a number of eateries on our way, but I suggested that we walk all the way to the end before selecting one. As it turned out we did select the last one, which was out over the water (40 metres deep). Had a great lunch of smoked ham, cheeses, olives, bread and a "little" bottle of wine each. Still only €20.
As promised, after lunch we went back to Kotor and climbed up and up the hill/mountain to a magnificent spot for photos. Then back to the port (well actually the Old Town gate), but this was not without its problems as the roads leading to the port were gridlocked. Our driver knew a few shortcuts and we saw a lot of the back streets of the city. Sitting in the back seat it all looked a bit hair raising, but all the drivers seem anxious to avoid accidents, so give way at the last minute. Thankfully!
We walked back through the port gate and were astounded by the queue - until I noticed that it was the queue for the Norwegian ship. Ours was only about 100 long, so just had to wait a short wait for a tender. The Golden Princess, although running late, had just packed up its tenders. Both ships left before us, and we had a most picturesque sail out (particularly for those who didn't do the 6.00am thing 😀😀).
Day 41 - 11 July-Dubrovnik
I think we docked not long after 6.00am. We sailed in towards the new Dubrovnik Bridge which provides a more direct access through the country, rather than around the estuary. We then performed a 90° turn and reversed into the harbour & our berth. We have nothing planned today, but still had an early breakfast and headed ashore.
With some difficulty we found the tourist information and established the cost of a local bus to the Old City, approximately 5km away (€6 As opposed to AUD 20 for Princess shuttle). Our intention however was to visit the town of Cavtat, about 30 minutes south of Dubrovnik as we've been to the Old Town before. Unfortunately all transport leaves from the old city, so we have few options.
Just outside the port gate and in our way to the bus station we were accosted by numerous buxom Croatian women, touting taxi tours. Their prices, just to get to Cavtat and back were up to €100. We decided to get a bus. And then "Ivan" - which may or may not have been his name, proposed a 4 hour scenic tour, time in Cavtat and back to the ship for €80. In the scheme of things this seemed a good price but as we were getting into his car another couple came along and asked if they could join us. So our cost immediately dropped to €40. Excellent!
Briefly, we went over the new bridge for a photo stop, followed by driving about 5 km up the estuary to the base of the Bosnian mountains, where there is a natural spring feeding a small waterfall, no, more a weir. There used to be an old flour mill here, long since abandoned (well before the 1991-92 war). The water was crystal clear and full of fish.
Here I should mention that Ivan' s car was a 3.5 litre Peugeot, driven as a rally car on the usual windy roads. Added to this, use of his cellphone while driving, along with customary hand gestures, therefore having no hands on the wheel as we roared around ensured an exciting experience. He also mentioned that it used to be the French President's car, but that he paid 3,000 Kuna for it - which is very little, so not too sure how much to believe.
Next stop was a drive up the hills overlooking the Old Town-we are just slightly below the cable car terminus, but quite rightly our view was unobstructed and we got some great photos without the cables being in the way (as they were last time we visited).
Then on to Cavtat, well not directly, we called into the Hotel Croatia Cavtat for a magnificent view over the town. We also took the opportunity of using their facilities, which was a good idea as in the town the toilets had to be paid for and required local Kuna! We saw many fellow passengers struggling to get money changed at the bank!
Then it was down to the town and a stroll along the waterfront. It is really lovely but a bit crowded with "tourists", as there were 2 cruise ships in Dubrovnik today. Ivan described the town as the Riviera of Croatia, or of the South. Certainly an apt description, with numerous super yachts were moored there. We had anticipated having coffee/ lunch here, but Ivan made the suggestion/offer to take us out into the country to the best restaurant etc. etc. It was only 11.00 by now so we were quite happy, particularly given the crowds in the cafes etc.
Well, it wasn't just out into the country but a 30-40 minute drive almost to the border with Montenegro to the south and once again over to the Bosnian mountains to the east. The restaurant was a traditional family affair with most seating under the trees. The food was all local and the facilities included a smoke house for the fish, ham & other meats. Ivan had taken the liberty of booking us the prime table under a little bridge. Yes, another fresh water spring fed stream, filled with fish, passing under a bridge in the middle of nowhere. Incredible.
We decided to eat local fare which was a beef & dumpling casserole with bread and a salad. It may sound a bit mundane but was absolutely delicious - I found it similar to venison. Vivian & I shared a local beer. The cost, once again, was just €20. The atmosphere was worth hundreds. Oh, the local dog took a liking to us, so sat beside us until the food arrived.
By now our 4 hours was just about up, so we zoomed home to Dubrovnik- not before stopping for a bottle of water for the radiator! Ivan then told us that he was getting this car "fixed" this afternoon, including the brakes, which was really reassuring. Obviously we made it back to the ship and in the end our journey took 5 hours and Ivan was so generous with his time and information, I gave him an extra €10 as he was well worth it. A thoroughly enjoyable day which started out as just a thought of getting out of town. Many times the unplanned turn out better than the planned. Or, have we just been very lucky the last 2 days?
The temperatures over the last couple of days have been a pleasant 27°, which was ideal for both travelling and walking. Both of our drivers explained that their income is purely tourist driven and that they only earn for between 5-7 months a year. There is no work at all in the off season. However they were both positive and for future reference, yesterday was "Seven silver tours of Kotor" and today "Exclusive Dubrovnik Tours".
The history of the area (including the more recent war with the breakup of Yugoslavia) is both intriguing and sad in so many ways. While not so obvious in Montenegro, there certainly remains a bitterness in Croatia - not without reason. The countryside and mountains are stunning and the waters sooo crystal clear, it is just a shame that so many bad things have happened amongst this beauty.
We set sail for Venice at 4.00 and will be cruising up past St Marks Square around midday tomorrow, but that's another story.
I can't get over how brave and trusting you are to just take tours with touts at the port entrance. I admire as well as enjoy the different things you do.
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